Over the Labor Day weekend our hot water heater decided it was time to say good bye. Since we had our fall check the week before, we called Nerthlings. I cannot say enough good things about how this situation was handled. The technician, Dwain, was knowledgeable, friendly, and quite helpful without being pushy. Our questions were answered clearly. I am never made to feel that this is something...
We bought 2 top of the line Lennox HAC for $29,000 less about $3,500 rebates, thinking they would at least last 10 years. Well, after 6 years, the system leaked. We are paying $1,700 to fix that leak. We thought at least it is still under warranty - yes BUT - the warranty covered $15 & the rest we were up for ,even though they advertise 10 year warranty. We are trying to sell & move out of high cost southern Calif & have looked at 20+ places in Arizona. Most of the houses we looked at were built from 1998 to 2005. We asked if the HAC was original & in most case it was - even though the highs were 115 to 120 & the lows 90F - versus where we live the highs run 85 to 95 & the lows are in the 60s. I asked the repairman WHY ours went out at 6 years. He replied that they just do not build them the same anymore. In Arizona, I did not see any Lennox - mostly Trane or Carrier. We had Fujistu in Australia which were fantastic - nothing went wrong in the 9 years we had them. Also, they had full induction motors not like the energy consuming 2 stage motors in Lennox. Maybe the Japanese built Fujusita still builds quality & the warranty is meaningful?
For starters, once a year, vacuum out the area around the furnace’s blower. If possible, also slide out the fan unit, clean each fan blade with a toothbrush, and then vacuum with a brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner. While you’re at it, look for oil ports on the motor, normally located near the motor shaft. If the motor has these, apply two to three drops of non-detergent motor oil into each port (you may have to remove a cover plate to do this). Though most contemporary motors don’t require lubrication, do lubricate motors with oil ports once a year. For more about maintenance, see Maintenance Checklist for Central Heating Systems.
"LIFESAVER! Came right out to our home to save us from the heat. I called around 11 and they sent someone by the afternoon 1:30. Carlos fixed our AC on the spot! Very professional and knew what the issues were and fixed them all as fast as possible! Otherwise we would all be toast in this Texas Summer HEat. Thank you Carlos with Ruben's AC! Excellent service"
Have your contractor do a load calculation based on a recognized method, such as one in Manual J from the ACCA. The contractor’s evaluation should include whether your ducts need to be resized, sealed and insulated, or replaced. Remember that an indoor evaporator coil and outdoor condenser must be a matched set from the same brand, or the performance, efficiency, and capacity might not meet expectations.
These factors are included in a "Manual J" calculation. Contractors who make these calculations before recommending a size can take a couple of hours collecting the information and making the calculation. If your contractor doesn't do it, there are services that will do it for around $99. If you're feeling particularly on the ball, there are also free online calculators.
Refrigeration air conditioning equipment usually reduces the absolute humidity of the air processed by the system. The relatively cold (below the dewpoint) evaporator coil condenses water vapor from the processed air, much like an ice-cold drink will condense water on the outside of a glass. Therefore, water vapor is removed from the cooled air and the relative humidity in the room is lowered. The water is usually sent to a drain or may simply drip onto the ground outdoors. The heat is rejected by the condenser which is located outside of room to be cooled.
I need a complete system replacement , before I was trying to get an evaporator coil replaced , of course the price is between $2200 an $2800 , then get told it probably will over tax my ac unit within months , so now and like everyone else what do you buy 14 ,15 16 17 seer units ,price and how do we know its reasonable why can't there be '" a estimated price ,in the ball park, a range of prices ,so we can at least go from their ..... Now it's from 7500 to 15000. Frustrating from the start so everybody good LUCK. Draw a # from the hat Unregulated and who do you BELIEVE, just like on NCIS go with your gut feelin
In 1992, a non-governmental organization, Greenpeace, was spurred by corporate executive policies and requested that a European lab find substitute refrigerants. This led to two alternatives, one a blend of propane (R290) and isobutane (R600a), and one of pure isobutane. Industry resisted change in Europe until 1993, and in the U.S. until 2011, despite some supportive steps in 2004 and 2008 (see Refrigerant Development above).
Split-system central air conditioner – for this type of system, there are two separate cabinets. One is located outside in a metal cabinet and houses the condenser and compressor. The second cabinet is on the inside of the house and contains the evaporator. Typically, the indoor cabinet contains a furnace or part of a heat pump, which has the evaporator coils installed in the main supply duct of the heat pump or furnace. This system is great for anyone who already has a furnace but no air conditioner. It offers the most affordable option for their needs.
Even if your air conditioning unit is still working, depending on the type of system in your home today, you could recoup your investment in a new system in as little as three years. However, that doesn't mean that your system needs to be replaced. Furnaces, air conditioners, and other heating and cooling systems have made tremendous gains in efficiency over the past five years, so if you have an older unit, it is worth taking a look at whether or not a repair is the best investment.